Monday, 1 July 2013

Finally sun (err.. lack of rain?) - AID and Trad

After weeks of rain and miserable weather we finally had a consistent weekend. Who ever says there is no such thing as climate change is probably clueless… the world has not ended but when you go rock climbing in January and the thermometer shows 12oC, you know there is definitely something weird going on…

Saturday I went to Wye Valley (a total of 6h drive both ways) for a bit of aid training with Alex and the whole thing just proved how much training I still need before commit my ass on a big line. It was nice to share a bit of knowledge and get the heart racing a bit jummaring up and down and having pieces popping on my forehead. 

Sunday Alex, me, Keith and James went to Bristol (bit closer, 5h drive) for a bit of trad. Cold, dry, nice friction, amazing setting and laughs all day long. Perfect day. I always have such a blast with those guys! Even though I can sport climb 6b/b+ my trad skills were stuck on VSs for quite awhile and I had only 2 HVS on my belt. This Sunday I did 2 straight HVSs, proper graded lines and I was so able to keep my shit together… There were times when I though of calling mommy, pulling the gear, abort it.. But held, breath in, breath out and there I went to the top. Very psyched for 2013!

Suspense, 33m, HVS 5a
Easy start that gets proper HVS steep at the final bits.

Suspension Bridge Arete, 33m HVS 5a
Easy start but I weird misleading crack that looks so easy and straightforward from bellow but once you are at, it is a proper overhanging bit and I had butterflies on my stomach when the whole thing started pulling me back. Nice treads and very solid protection on both routes though.

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