Saturday, 16 February 2013

Rjukan, Rjukan Centre

Last full day of climbing, we woke up early and rested (so we thought), ready to climb until sun light was there. We decided to check another sector, very close by. Rjukan Central is 5 minutes from where we were staying and the walk to the base of the waterfall is a short 15 minutes through a steep path.

Starting on hard and bad ice

Top of the route

Although I'm not feeling any specific sign of muscle tiredness it is visible I am wasted.. Last night I forgot to put my boots to dry. Today at the start of the climb instead of choosing the more straightforward way I went to the steeper part, which was very very hard and brittle ice.. I was pumped of my mind, my crampon slipped and I was hanging by a single axe… quite scary. I was not feeling comfortable at all in the simple bits. Another fucked up - I took less ice screws then we needed.. I became sloppy and not psyched. There were loads of fresh snow, I had to be cutting path and ended up socked (shit non-waterproof trousers). Being wet and shit cold probably does not add up. Stewart led the second pitch which was easy and because the third pitch was not properly formed and we would need rock gear I made a delicate traverse so that we could finish at the top pitch of Tjonnstadbergfossen (WI4), which was also very used and hooky but still pretty. We walked back to the parking place. It is crazy that Paul and Ben were just a few meters away from us and their ice was blue and soft rather our bit was hard and rotten at some places...

Today we did:
Lysloypa, WI4 (3 pitches) - led pitch 1, Stew led 2 and 3

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