Thursday, 14 February 2013

Krokan & Lower Gorge

Early start again… it has being snowing heavily so we gave up going to Upper Gorge and decided to joint Paul and Jo in Krokan. It was Stewart's turn to lead, he chose Jonfrua, a steep and sustained WI4 which had me really pumped just by following. I remember that mid route I was just thinking how tired I am feeling after 5 days of climbing non-stop… Eventually I reached the top but felt really unsyched for any hard climb. I choose Kjokkentrappa which was still a 4 but more relaxing to try put me in the right frame of mind. It ended up being steep but easy, all foot holds and hooks were already in place, even the ice screw holes where already there.. Nice and got me back. Stewart then led Gaustaspokelse, a beautiful line where you have to wedge between the rocks and ice, and there is a cool tree branch to pass through, very interesting.



STewart working up on Gaustaspokelse, WI4









I was keen to try the M6 route so I could have a feeling of the grade, I was lucky because some guys were top roping the route and let me had a try. It is short and not hard but the whole climbing is very delicate and you feel like it could pop at any time. Unfortunately I ended up falling in the last traverse move but still manage to finish.


Me by the crux of Two assholes and five nice bolts, M6

Jo getting psyched for the lead


















Having done all WI4's in condition in Krokan we decided to go back to Lower Gorge and finish the pillar we had seem the other day.

After a short drive we were soon at the bottom of the gorge. The pillar did not look as interesting so I choose instead Hjemreinse, just by the side of it. The grade is WI4 but you know ice.. you can always make it harder or softer and I ended up (not consciously) going up through the steepest line.. very very sustained.. I though I was really going to fall at some point because I could not shake or relax properly and I ended up doing a massive run out coz I was just too pumped to protect anything.. It took me ages to go up, and the only ledge where I had hope to rest turn out to be crap. All the way, 25 meters, really steep… gosh… Stewart followed and after some time we catch up at the top, he had this big smile and said that was definitely a 5!! Highlight of my trip so far! Amazing. When you think the body is gone there is always a bit more to give...


Trying to find some rest at Hjemreinse, WI4 






To finish Stewart led a WI3 and by the time we've done it it was pretty much end of the day and really cold… Really tired…

Today we did:

Krokan area
Jonfrua, WI4 - Stewart led, I follow
Kjokkentrappa, WI4 - led
Two assholes and five nice bolts, M6 - top rope (fell in the last move)
Gaustaspokelse, WI4 - Stewart led

Lower Gorge
Hjemreinse, WI4 - led, went to the hard bit which made a 5
Kursuta, WI3 - Stewart led

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