Wednesday, 13 February 2013

Rjukan, Bolgen area

We were in for a long multi-pitch route, a WI4, 4 piches. We would be climbing in three again. Stewart led the first steep pitch and Paul was supposed to do the second feeling quite psyched after doing a few WI4's on the day before. By the time we both reached the belay he was drained. The exit of the second pitch was quite steep, with hard and bad ice.. probably the whole thing played on his mind so that he gave up and there i went. The second pitch proved indeed a sustained WI4 that took me over an hour to finish. Really bad. I was hitting big chunks of ice that were hitting my friends down there and the nature of the terrain did not make any easier for me to go further left or right.

Stewart starting the first pitch

At some point a big chunk hitter Stewart in the hand (this thumb got pretty big) and face (minor cut) so when they reached me by the belay it was not only late - we would be probably finishing the climb by 5sh - as he was in such a pain that we decided to called it short.

For the first time we abseil down an abalakov what was a bowel emptying experience. Short day but two very cool pitches done. Need to go back and finish this climb at some point…

Second pitch

Steep start

Bailing out

Today we did:
To Menn go et Foster, WI4 (4 pitches) - follow 1st, led 2nd, bail..

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