Saturday, 3 November 2012

AID Class #2

Second aid climbing training trip, once again to Bristol. This time Andy came along which was cool not only to boost moral but to sort of assure the partnership. I am fully committed to the plan and being able to pass a bit of what I know and learn a fair bit more together was very cool. Yosemite there we go!

Lessons learned:

#1 - If you clip your fifi directly to your piece make sure you won't be pulling it on a direction you are not supposed to or you risk ripping the gear out!

#2 - It is (even more) slower then you think…

#3 - When setting up a haul system you should hang your rack on your ascender to prevent it from keep coming back towards the hoist

#4 - According to the book: "when testing a piece you want to generate almost as 2x body weight on it to simulate a short fall"

Sunday we woke up under snow... Pretty soon all roads were flooded and we almost got stuck in Bristol. Crazy weather.

Saturday, 27 October 2012

AID Class #1

After delaying it for long I decided enough was enough and went on my own to Bristol for a bit of aid climbing practice. I've being alone in the mountains many times but it was actually the first time I was alone while hanging free in space and doing technical manoeuvres. I was very nervous but for sure that was one of my best experiences so far I am keen to do it again. The amount you learn just by having to rely solely on yourself is incredible.

I spent my day on a top-rope, using a shunt as a self-belay, just going up and down a rope, trying all my pieces and all possible manoeuvres I could came up with. The basic idea was go up on aid, abseil back, clean the pitch and haul the bag. I was lucky coz the crag faced the sun all afternoon.

Lessons learned:

#1 - Don't look to the piece while testing it.. We all know that, I know that but I still did it and the cam popped on my face and opened my lip :-)

#2 - It is slower then you think…

Wednesday, 4 July 2012

Como fazer seu Mac suportar o teclado brasileiro

Faça o download deste arquivo: Brasileiro

É um documento zipado, então, desempacote-o, clicando duas vezes nele – isso se o seu Mac não descompactá-lo automaticamente.

Para instalar, basta copiar o arquivo Brasileiro.bundle para a seguinte pasta do seu disco rígido:

Macintosh HD/Biblioteca/Keyboard Layouts
Macintosh HD/Library/Keyboard Layouts

Depois disso, é necessário finalizar a sessão e iniciar novamente (“logout” e depois “login”). Abra as Preferências do Sistema, clique no ícone Internacional e escolha a aba Menu de Entrada (Input Menu).

Ative o layout Brazil que possui uma bandeirinha do Brasil redonda. Pronto, o layout estará disponível para ser ativado na barra de menus, que fica no topo da sua tela.

Próximo ao relógio do seu Mac, clique na bandeirinha que aparece ali e ative o idioma Brazil. Agora é só abrir o seu TextEdit,  digitar aspas simples + c e ver o “ç” aparecer.

Monday, 25 June 2012

Weekend business at Chamonix, France: Contamine Mauzeaud

Mont Blanc du Tacul - Contamine Mauzeaud, II AD+ / D-, 350m, ice up to 65°

Tuesday, 29 May 2012

Saturday, 26 May 2012

Weekend business at Chamonix, France: Contamine Grissole

Mont Blanc du Tacul, Contamine Grissole, II AD, 350m, ice up to 60°